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Hakdong or Jangseungpo?

Both put you on the coast with boats to Oedo, and they suit different trips. Hakdong and the south coast give you Windy Hill, Sinseondae's sunset and the Haegeumgang islets; Jangseungpo and the east-coast ports give you four Oedo docks, the Jisimdo ferry and shallow beaches. Here is how to choose.

The verdict

For scenery, sunsets and Windy Hill, choose Hakdong and the south coast: Hakdong's black-pebble beach, Windy Hill at the end of Dojangpo village and Sinseondae's lookout are on one stretch of coast, and boats from Dojangpo pass Haegeumgang on the way to Oedo. For Oedo, camellias, families and the easier bus trip, choose Jangseungpo: four of the seven Oedo docks are on this coast, Jisimdo is about 15 minutes by ferry from Jangseungpo Port, Gujora and Wahyeon have shallow beaches, and Jangseungpo has its own intercity bus terminal. Two nights? Take one of each.

Side by side

Hakdong & the South Coast and Jangseungpo & the East Coast Ports, side by side
Hakdong & the South CoastJangseungpo & the East Coast Ports
Getting thereIntercity bus to Gohyeon, then city bus: about 1 hour 5 minutes to Hakdong and 1 hour 23 minutes to Dojangpo (VisitKorea).Intercity buses straight to Jangseungpo: about 5 hours 30 minutes from Seoul Nambu and about 1 hour 10 minutes from Gimhae Airport (VisitKorea, 2019).
BoatsOedo boats from Dojangpo and Haegeumgang docks; the Haegeumgang cruise from a quay in Galgot-ri, valid ID required.Oedo boats from Jangseungpo, Jisepo, Wahyeon and Gujora; the Jisimdo ferry from Jangseungpo, about 15 minutes.
Best forSunsets, sea views, Windy Hill, Haegeumgang.Oedo, Jisimdo's camellias, families, beach days.
BeachesHakdong's 1.2 km black-pebble beach; deep water with rough waves.Gujora and Wahyeon: wide, shallow beaches; Wahyeon is busy in summer.
EveningsSunset at Sinseondae, or at Yeocha Mongdol Beach and Hongpo Observatory.Jangseungpo's lit Songgu-yeongsin Somang-gil and Okpo Port's lit boardwalk.
Sightseeing within reachWindy Hill, Sinseondae, Haegeumgang, the Dojangpo to Haegeumgang trail and the Yeocha–Hongpo coast.Oedo Botania, Jisimdo, Gongot-i, Gujora Fortress, Jisepo's folk museum and Okpo Great Victory Commemorative Park.
SeasonsCanola at Sinseondae in April and May.Jisimdo's camellias, best from late February to mid-March (VisitKorea, 2019); Gongot-i's daffodils in March and April.
FeelAn open coast of black pebbles, a windmill on the hill and rock islets out to sea.Harbour towns, ferry piers and family beaches.

Choose Hakdong & the South Coast if

  • Sinseondae's sunset is the point of the trip
  • You want Windy Hill and the Haegeumgang islets
  • You are coming for the canola in April and May
  • You want a black-pebble beach

Choose Jangseungpo & the East Coast Ports if

  • Oedo Botania is your main goal
  • You want Jisimdo's camellias in late winter
  • You are travelling with children who want shallow water
  • You are arriving by bus from Gimhae Airport or Seoul Nambu

Questions visitors ask

Is Hakdong or Jangseungpo better for Oedo?

Jangseungpo, by numbers: four of the seven docks VisitKorea lists for Oedo boats are on the east coast, at Jangseungpo, Jisepo, Wahyeon and Gujora. Hakdong's side has two, Dojangpo and Haegeumgang, and VisitKorea's Korean site says boats from Dojangpo pass Haegeumgang on the way. Either way, VisitKorea gives visitors two hours on the island.

Which is easier without a car?

Jangseungpo. It has its own intercity bus terminal, with direct buses from Seoul Nambu and Gimhae Airport in VisitKorea's 2019 listings. Hakdong is reached by city bus from Gohyeon Bus Terminal, about 1 hour 5 minutes, with Dojangpo about 23 minutes further on. VisitKorea's own itinerary recommends a rental car or taxi for Geoje.

Where should I stay for a beach holiday with children?

Jangseungpo and the east coast. Gujora's beach is shallow and warm, about 1.1 km long, and Wahyeon's is wide and shallow, backed by pines. Hakdong is a black-pebble beach whose water VisitKorea describes as deep, with rough waves, deep water with rough waves (VisitKorea).

Read both in full.

Hakdong & the South Coast guideJangseungpo & the East Coast Ports guide

Sources & review

Editorial review: · Korea Standard Time